Italian Food and Wine Elevated on the Beltline

Italian tradition takes many forms. Indaco (meaning “Indigo”) is rooted in tradition and season. It leans into handmade pasta and wood-fired pizzas, vegetables, and crudo with seasonal influence, all intended to be shared.

The extensive wine list and cocktails highlight Italian varietals; but don’t expect red checkered tablecloths and plastic ivy on the walls. Instead, Indaco’s interior is polished, refreshing with an open kitchen by the entrance, moody music, all while billing itself as “a place to slow down and savor together.”

Overlooking the Beltline, the large outdoor patio is one level up vs. being directly on the “track.” One fun twist is its bocce course. Bocce is a lawn game where players roll balls towards a target “palino,” which adds a lively feel to the outdoor dining experience.

Although originating in Egypt, bocce was popularized in Italy which gives it all the more flair. Indaco has two patios, one covered seating 42, the other uncovered for 31, with a full 150 capacity indoors. Our service was friendly, well-paced, and attentive.

General Manager Macy Lister likes to think of Indaco as a speakeasy because to reach the restaurant, one must ride an elevator, and there is no street visibility. She describes the clientele as “families with kids who want a nice meal out, and a lot of young professionals. A nice variety. We do a lot of celebrations and birthdays. My favorite preparation is Agnolitti, which means ‘little pillow,’ my interpretation of ‘sweet dreams’ where braised beef marries a pasta and has a baby. All around we consider ourselves to be elevated, but approachable.”

What we sampled on a Saturday night:
Smooth Chanti Classico Castello Di Bossi, Tuscany 2022 ($14 per glass) plus a signature cocktail Tintura No. 2 ($17), pear infused tequila, honey, lemon, Cocchi Americana, cinnamon; they also offer spirit-free options for $10.

Antipasti
Tuna Tartare ($19): Marcona almond (interesting touch) chili crisp, Castelvetrano olives on a thick focaccia, which, since our visit, this bread base has been slimmed down for the better.
Kale Salad ($15): shaved apple, lavender vinaigrette, Humbolt Fog goat cheese, and pine nuts. Large kale leaves, after getting through some expert cutting, lead the way to a rich tasting blend. Humbolt Fog is a semi-soft, American-made goat cheese (from Cypress Grove, Calif.) known for its distinctive line of vegetable ash running through the center.

Piatti  
Whole Branzino ($49): salmoriglio (green sauce), arugula, red onion, parsley. Lots of depth in an authentic presentation. We asked for the fish head “off.”

Contori
Crispy potatoes ($11): sharable portion, Calabrian chili aioli, parmesan (coated in salt not noted on menu)
Crispy Brussel Sprouts ($11): sherry, pinenuts, Pecorino (sheep’s cheese) sweet yet sassy, shareable.

Dessert
Apple Crostata ($14): roasted Georgia apples, salted caramel, spiced pecans
Apple cider soft serve ($9): pecan, praline, caramel. All in keeping with Georgia’s autumnal apple bonanza.

Options for next time:
For the Table: $65 per guest for the three adventurous courses served family style (chef’s choice)

Pizza
Spicy Soppressata ($24): tomato (San Marzano), mozzarella, basil, honey, parmesan
Funghi ($22): garlic oil, smoked mozzarella, pioppino (black poplar, velvet mushrooms known for their nutty taste), caramelized onion, fried rosemary. Adventurous to fry the spices’ twigs?
Cappelleti ($29): sweet corn, serrano, mint, mascarpone, Espelette pepper
Bucatina ($32): white wine, butter, black truffle, pecorino
Charred broccolini ($10)

Lister’s favorite pizza is the Margherita which she claims will satisfy all cravings. She also noted that prices on some items like the hangar steak vary when it’s truffle season which could be $72 or $58 like it is now.

There are seven Indaco’s including Nashville, West Palm, Greenville, and Charlotte. Jezebel Magazine in 2024 put Indaco on their “Best of Atlanta List.” Indaco is part of the Indigo Road Group which includes OK-U on Howell Mill, and two restaurants in Avalon: Colletta and Oak Steakhouse.

Indaco is located next to the Kroger in the Black Rock building, where diners have a short elevator ride to the restaurant at 725 Ponce de Leon Ave., just east of Ponce City Market. Parking in the building’s lower level is validated for two hours. An independent valet out front charges $6.

For more information, please call 404-205-5183.