O-Ku is Much More than OK

O-Ku succeeds because it stays in its lane. With just the right dose of fanfare, it’s kid-friendly, yet intimate with an upscale hip twist at the same time. O-Ku, meaning “hidden, nuanced and complex,” offers innovative Japanese cuisine with small plates, sushi, nigiri, sashimi, maki, entrees, and masterpiece specials with some gluten-free and vegetarian options.

Seating 130, O-Ku began in 2013 by Indigo Road and has locations in Raleigh, Washington, D.C., West Palm Beach, Charlotte, Nashville, and several more … without feeling “chain like.”

Though it compares favorably to Nobu’s “rocket ship” prices, O-Ku does have some pricey items like Wagu Sando with Caviar for $90, and Otoro spoons for $90. We were able to coast in the $20 range still with some adventurous choices.

After a glass of wine for around $15, we were steered to two chef specials: Hamachi Carpaccio ($22): yellowtail, serrano pepper, radish, yuzu sauce, and herb oil with cilantro. We liked it because it was not dependent on a salty aura as the base flavors worked well together. The table favorite was Salmon Usuzukuri ($20); pickled wasabi stems, chives, and truffle ponzu sauce. We asked that the added volcanic salt be “86-ed.” Both were served in loooooong slender boats with plenty to share. A nice touch initially was the server offering artistically thin slices of lemon and lime (without being asked), alongside tap water without pushing bottled water.

The main course was Hakozushi which was recommended by our server. The Marbled Forest ($22) was comprised of spicy tuna, salmon, yellow tail, tuna, avocado, and shiro ajo sauce dressed with emerald dill and basil shards. Next up was Wasa-Bae ($22); spicy salmon, bincho maguro (a pale albacore tuna), asparagus, spicy chili oil, wasabi tobiko, and green onion. Both were sliced into unique rectangle shapes — like proud, small layer cake heaps vs. the traditional circles.

On the downside, they were a bit too similar to order concurrently, but they were nouveau and had subtle differences like the fried crispy mini “fru fru strudels” of tobiko, flying fish roe, commonly used as topping or garnish positioned atop the latter. These two could be combined with Tuna Crudo as a flight for $32. We ended with some (above) leftovers and two desserts: Sata Andaji ($13); Okinawa style donut holes, peanut sesame sugar, and miso caramel, and Yuzu Peach Éclair ($13) neither of which was particularly stellar: but who goes out for sushi expecting star desserts? Next time, we will have the Soft Serve Miso Caramel ($10) which would be a refreshing ending. Another choice for next time would be The Herbivore ($15); asparagus, cucumber, braised mushrooms, avocado, and pickled ginger.

The nigiri and sashimi menu spanned 21 choices with a $1.50 upcharge for a glazed and torched preparation. Appealing hot entrees were Miso Salmon ($27) served medium rare with spinach, sunchoke potato, and mushroom. Signature Smoky Hamachi with yellowtail tomato puree and ponzu had an out-of-the-box appeal.

The O-Ku interior has distinct parts: tables in the center, long benches — maybe a little too cozy alongside other diners, and high tops which we found to be preferable. The drop lighting pendants add a touch of glamour.  One wall had a painted brick scene on pale blue. Mirrors provided an illusion of peeking into other rooms which were mere reflections. The bottom line: it does all work together as a cool addition to Atlanta’s Westside.

The main complaint was the awkward forced valet parking for $5 plus the “nudging” for an additional tip which is de riguer these days. Starting on the wrong foot, the attendant wouldn’t take the car without getting a cell phone. Who knows why? Plus, the cars were literally a few feet away. Atlanta has to get over expecting free parking in the city.

O-Ku is located at 1085 Howell Mill Road, heading west off I-75 towards the city. 404-500-2383. Reservations are accepted. Hours are 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m.