Drift Remains Right on Course

Seven-year-old East Cobb seafood restaurant Drift is no “flash in the pan.” Instead, it produces pan-sized delicacies freshly sizzling on and around the woodfire grill.

Opened in 2016, Drift calls itself “a lively sustainable seafood joint that’s landlocked.” Drift sails above being “a joint” with its elegant pale wood and pinpoint lighting. Preparations are simple, elegant and focus on a seasonal menu. The bar is stocked with hand crafted cocktails and “seafood friendly” sparkling, white, rose, and red wines.

The strawberry and roasted beet salads were large enough to share.

Drift knows its lane and stays in it with a menu that doesn’t hop all over the universe or try to be clever with deconstructed frou frou. Interestingly though, within the seafood and salad delights are hints of the Orient-like bok choy, eggplant, ginger, miso, and sushi rice. The chef and owner is Doug Turbush, who also operates Seed in Marietta; and Sarah Berman, who grew up in Alpharetta and worked her way up into management with her full seven years at Drift, serves as general manager and captains the ship.

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The layout is architecturally solid so diners can hear who’s at just their table. This is not just another place to eat. Special nod to the interior design team who produced the “wow.” Drift notches above Hilton Head-like in ambiance, with its floating oars and framed fishing lures. The “mile high” ceiling suspends the oars, some individually painted, against charcoal, blue-ish walls, clever wood slats in lighting and room separations, drapes of sails, and unusual crisscrossed ropes…are we on Onassis’ yacht? Service was polite, attentive, thoughtful, not fussy. The crowd was a combination of suburbanites, date nighters, and whoever else wandered in. Drift is special without being pretentious.

Our server stated that his roots were in bartending and suggested a seasonal whiskey, “Livin’ on a Pear”- buffalo trace, featuring St. George spiced pear, mint, lemon, angostura bitters ($14.95), which pleased the guys.

The glazed Brussels sprouts (right) complemented the black grouper (top) and the brilliantly designed grilled salmon in a tomatoey base of feta, olives, and eggplant.

What we had:

Salads
Strawberry salad with mesclun greens, candied pecans, strawberry ricotta, balsamic Saba vinaigrette (GF) $15.
Roasted beet salad – pistachios, arugula, orange whipped goat cheese, fennel topped with jewels of ample pomegranate seeds ($14); could add salmon to any salad for $19.

Two other well received seafood entrees were the parmesan crusted trout piccata (top) and a hearty portion of blue cod fish and chips.

Chef Specialties
Wild caught black grouper with sushi rice, ginger, scallion. Sherry citrus, soy sauce ($42): An interesting aside, black grouper have snow white flesh, can live up to 30 years and grow to 180 pounds. They can also begin life as a female and change to male since there are so few males. Sounds like Jdate. Nothing beats Mother Nature.
Parmesan crusted trout piccata with crispy potatoes, lemon brown butter, capers, and peppers: two large pieces. Always in search of the encrusted trout almandine from the now defunct Brickery, this still scored well. Also of note, “piccata” comes from the Italian word “larded,” but it means “sliced and sautéed in a lemon butter sauce,” thank goodness ($30).
Grilled salmon: Who can get creative with yet another salmon dish? This one was it! What a glistened bejeweled presentation afloat in roasted tomatoes and peppers, eggplant, currant caper relish, feta, and olives ($34).
Beer battered fish and chips: large pieces of blue cod, tartar sauce and lemon ($29).
Side of crispy Brussels sprouts in Korean chili glaze, ginger and garlic.
Dessert was a cross between a spaceship and volcanic boomerang – molten chocolate cake with chantilly cream, dulce de leche ice cream, pistachio tuile ($10).

General manager Sarah Berman displays a popular whole branzino special.

Next visit

Starter: Tuna tartare with avocado, peanuts, ginger apple, benne, puffed rice.
Entrees: Braised lemon sole with salsa verde, preserved lemon; seared tuna – onion soubise, parmesan couscous, English peas, pea tendrils.

Everything sounds so agreeable it seems as if preparations would be good interchangeable…for example, pairing the sole with parmesan couscous, or the salmon with preserved lemon. The sign of a competent chef!

Drift’s coastal décor is cleverly coordinated with oars suspended from the super high ceiling.

Drift is consistent. It really works from all the angles and anglers, pun intended. We came with no expectation, and left with all party of four exclaiming, “We liked this.” Easy free self-parking out front.

On Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Drift hosts POPS, serving from the outside patio, order at the bar, limited (less costly) menu, live music. Drift is closed on Mondays; opens at 5 p.m. Drift is located at The Avenue East Cobb, 4475 Roswell Road. 770-635-7641.