Family Tradition: A Recipe for Hearty Italian
Carbonara Trattoria has been in the heart of Dunwoody for 13 years.
After 37 years with the Atlanta Journal-Constitution and now with the AJT, , Jaffe’s focus is lifestyle, art, dining, fashion, and community events with emphasis on Jewish movers and shakers.
Not a newcomer on the piazza, Carbonara Trattoria has been in the heart of Dunwoody for their 13th bar mitzvah year. Father-son duo, owner Rafik Cressaty and general manager son, Patrick, are onsite and on the “oro” when it comes to hands on presence with standard fare and an ever-changing menu.
But wait, “Cressaty” isn’t an Italian name. Raifik explained, “I was actually born in Cairo. We left in 1956 (at age 15) to get away from Nassar. I was passionate about being in the food business; but years ago, no one wanted Mediterranean or Greek food here; and French is so limited.”
He also noted that their Mexican head chef was the original who started in 2011. Son, Patrick, demurred, “Dad’s being modest because prior to this, he was President of Coke for North and West Africa.”
Regardless of who knows what, Jews have a vibe for good food, and on this Saturday night, tables were pretty much populated by Members of the Tribe. Stepping into Carbonara is like a stroll into a nice alley in Roma. The art, the walls, the ambiance, waft of promises to come in large portions. The tables are set up nicely with the option of an estate table for 12. Booths align the sides.
Patrick, who served as bartender for the first seven years, still takes pride in the speed and service at the bar. He said, “On a Saturday night like this, I still work the bar to maintain solid service and deserve the awards we get on our cocktails.”
That night we had the Lemon Drop Martini (sugar on the rim), Pink Prosecco, and a sweet, lightly sparkling and fruity tasting Moscato.
What we sampled:
Insalate: Caesar, romaine, parmesan and house made croutons. Be sure to request anchovies ($12)
Wedge: Iceberg, bleu cheese crumble, red onions and cherry tomatoes ($13)
Other options for next time:
Beet: Red beets, orange slices, Belgian endives, red onion and goat cheese
Watermelon: Feta, arugula, red onion ($14)
Tricolore: Belgian endives, arugula, candied walnuts, and radicchio. Gorgonzola walnut dressing.
Primi: Gluten-free pasta with a side of Brussel sprouts, spaghetti with pomodoro sauce
Other options for next time:
Penne Al Arrabiatta red pepper flakes, black olives, mozzarella, spicy pomodoro sauce
Pappardelle Al Salmone: Salmon, peas and fresh tomatoes in saffron cream sauce.
Secondi: Marvelous fish from which to choose … we had the Chef’s Special: Striped Bass and Flounder ($48) with fennel and tomatoes over risotto and white wine broth. This was the table favorite highlighted by the firm celery-like strips of fennel. We couldn’t distinguish which was the bass vs. flounder. Lots of leftovers.
Flounder Francese ($43): Lemon and artichoke risotto was fleshy and firm and served sizzling hot.
Other tempters: Grilled trout ($34), asparagus and roasted potatoes.
For dessert, we opted for Key Lime Pie and Tiramisu. Note that desserts are not made on site.
As the main dining room hummed with conviviality, Sue and Bob Levy, along with Linda and Frank Nathan, were focused on hearty picatta entrees. On the patio, former tow truck titan Ronnie Mayer with wife, Debbie, enjoyed the more sedate ambiance on the patio. Mayer said he was feasting on veal with capers in a white wine sauce, lemon and artichoke risotto. Local celeb Tom Sullivan (credited for discovering Ryan Seacrest) was making rounds chatting at tables.
The interior of Carbonara can accommodate 75 with a total of 115, including the patio. For those who like to put a fine point on things, “carbonara” is a dish stemming from the Lasio region in Tuscany, and traditionally cooked with egg, pecorino cheese, and some sort of “porky” meat. Kosher versions are more delish made with mushrooms and veggies. A “trattorio” in Italy is less fancy than a ristorante, but more formal than an osteria.
Hours start at 5 p.m. Closed Mondays. Reservations on weekends are recommended.
Free parking out front. 5499 Chamblee Dunwoody Road. 678-587-9100
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