The Art of Food at Lazy Betty

If the mention of Manhattan’s Per and Se and Le Bernadine arouse ones’ taste buds, then Atlanta’s answer to a top-shelf dining experience is Lazy Betty, a multi-course tasting prix fix menu featuring modern cuisine with global Asian influences.

This kind of menu translates to “approachable leaning to the technical and artistic” which is a good thing in the hallowed kitchens of fine dining. Lazy Betty has also scored a Michelin star since 2023. Currently, Atlanta has up to eight Michelin one-star restaurants with an expanding list of “mentions,” since Michelin only recently expanded to include the South.

Not a newcomer, Lazy Betty, which seats 70, opened in 2019, originating in Candler Park, and now located at 999 Peachtree at 10th Street, next to the Hyatt Centric Hotel. The fine New York concepts range from $350 to $425 per person without wine and some include gratuity. Since price is a part of the story, at Lazy Betty, wine pairing is $95 to $150 per person, food is $180 to $250 (four courses), or $275 to $400 (eight courses). Referencing New York, note that Lazy Betty owner Ron Hsu was a creative chef at Le Bernadine, and the name, “Betty,” is for his mother.

Also a James Beard nominee, Lazy Betty utilizes a team/brigade service model. While there may be one server who starts with, “Hi, my name is so-and-so, multiple staff members share responsibility for a table, offering collaborative relay service. They all seemed pleasant and knowledgeable; this service style may feel less personal, but it allows for better efficiency via specialized roles. When queried, one server said, “We don’t wait around for something to happen. If I see a plate ready, I’ll bring it on out.” They are all clad in oatmeal ecru-colored lined jackets and buzz smoothly about.

We pre-requested a vegetarian/pescatarian menu which was individually printed for us. We opted for the four-course option. The meal began with an amuse-bouche (small complimentary one-bite appetizers designed to awaken the palette) trio that set a high bar: a delicate avocado cream roll, a translucent celery tart with crunch, and a tofu wedge. This was an early signal that presentation would play a central role throughout.

The first official course was beetroot and green apple arranged with peanut vinaigrette, fried ginger, and mint — earthy, tart, nutty, and herbal paired with Laurent Perrier Harmony Demi Sec French champagne.

Next came a cris–crossed, finger-sized pair of roasted Ora King Salmon filets atop a lemon cream fraiche and accented with fresh dill. A 2018 Chardonnay from Santa Rita Hills, Calif., was alongside.

The progression then shifted into deeper, more savory territory with salt-baked celery root. Served with a charred vegetable demi-glace and truffle celeriac, the dish leaned into umami. The celery root itself was tender and subtly sweet, its natural flavors amplified by the roasting process. The demi-glace added a smoky, concentrated depth that lingered pleasantly; paired with a 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile.

Dessert arrived as a textural finale: strawberry salsa layered over vanilla sponge cake, accented with puff pastry, hibiscus flour, and a strawberry-red currant sorbet. It was a lively composition — bright, tart, and just sweet enough. The hibiscus lent a floral note that kept the dish from feeling predictable. A late 2024 harvest wine from Alexander Valley, Calif., had a honeyed sweetness.

Food is art. At Lazy Betty, tiny edible flowers, truffle accents, and things one might not produce at home are part of the gestalt. Lazy Betty doesn’t announce itself with grand gestures. It feels like stumbling upon something slightly secret. Parking, often a headache in Atlanta, is surprisingly manageable here and validated next door. The outdoor patio would be a pleasant spring place to chill for a bit.

In the end, the evening felt less like a simple dinner and more like a curated performance — defined by movement, precision, and culinary expression.

Special note: The Atlanta Business Chronicle and Rough Draft have reported that co-founder/co-owner and chef, Aaron Phillips, had left Lazy Betty and will not be involved in daily decision making, but “will retain an ownership stake.”

In a meeting with the AJT on April 22, Phillips mused that he was “just 38 years old and had some ideas perking,” adding, “Right now, I’m happy, motivated, and energetic. Life is good.”