Elise: Where Dining is Elevated

Think of a night out in Manhattan — dinner and a show or symphony. Either way, make room for Elise, the first restaurant partnership for the Woodruff Arts Center, created to complement the visual and performing arts programming across the Midtown campus.

The restaurant benefits from steady traffic generated by Atlanta Symphony Orchestra concerts, Alliance Theatre productions, and High Museum visitors, lending a built-in audience. On the one hand, Elise adds a culinary touch point that fits naturally in the Arts Center; and on the other hand, gives suburbanites a reason to try some impressive, upscale dining without the pretense.

The name is a nod to the famous Beethoven composition, “Fur Elise,” and is further inspired by the space itself which was imagined by world famous architect Renzo Piano’s original space, then reinterpreted by Smith Hanes Studio with lighter wood floors, a warm white palette and bold use of color. The bar features strong scarlet tones and artwork from Chrissy Reed’s “Blobbies” series, giving an energetic and playful feel. The main dining room uses natural green tones for a calm and elegant atmosphere, anchored by a large Tommy Taylor abstract painting soaked in American modernism. The entrance has a sculptural work by Sonya Yong James made of coarse horsehair, adding exotic texture.

Elise’s design features a visual connection to the courtyard and surrounding campus. The menu is seafood driven, described as “light, airy, pure in quality, simple yet impactful.”

The Atlanta Jewish Times (“Flavors of Spain and Italy” June 29, 2012) praised Layla Lila, also the brainchild of Elise’s chef, Craig Richards. At Elise, he blends French and Italian influences. The menu includes delicacies accented by crudo with melon and bronze fennel, strawberry hibiscus jam, charred Persian cucumbers with pistachio chili butter or fennel pollen butter. The wine list features a hundred selections with a strong focus on French producers, from classic appellations to lesser-known winemakers. The cocktail program blends familiar ingredients with some unique twists and house made elements. The vermouth menu, for example, includes five to six artisanal choices. Some gourmet touches on entrees include polenta verde, poached apricots, Tokyo turnips, blackberry dashi, Madeira porcini jus, and pomme puree.

The menus are “a trip” in themselves on 8” x 10” notecard stock: two mint green, one peach with the bold “Elise” logo at the bottom. Ours was labeled “early autumn, evening.” The green ones are libations, and the latter caught our focus, the food. All in lower case — “to begin together, a breeze, a touch of sun, to swirl and spoon, a fulfillment, and a grounding,” were the headings.

What we sampled:
Sourdough and cornbread, French butter, sea salt ($9)
Snapper and tuna tartar, saffron aioli, sumac, pickled field peas ($25)
Anchovies, sherry butter, tomato powder, basil, bruschetta ($25)
The table favorite was the gazpacho ($17) due colori, roasted parmigiano ice cream, and crispy basil. Although it’s hard to fathom this mélange, the server poured it tableside, so that the ice crystals provided a surprise takeover of the darker tomato base.
Risotto cacao e pepe ($37) was rich and just spiky enough.
Halibut, fermented field peas, potatoes, butter lettuce, ginger beurre blanc, caviar ($53)
For next time: Snapper, green romenescu, preserved tomatoes, avocado, and petite herbs ($49) sounds just divine. Recommended desserts were a warm lemon tart, house made gelati and sorbetti, and a chocolate mousse finished with olive oil, sea salt, and zaatar, better known for its Israeli roots.

Chef Richards explained, “My evolution in cooking seafood began at St. Cecilia and continues at Elise. Opening Elise is a full circle moment, recalling dining in the same space in 2005, and being inspired by its architecture and atmosphere.”

Coincidentally, seen dining on our night at Elise, Emory University professor Matthew Bernstein, chair of the Film and Media Department, shared, “We really enjoyed our meal and will be returning.”

Dinner service lines up with evening performance schedules. Lunch service is from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Wednesday to Saturday, perfect for museum guests and neighbors. Elise is located at 1280 Peachtree St. NE. 404 540-7572.